Sichuan Online Reporter Zhang Hongxia Photography Ji Yong
Zhang Yuanfu (first from right), the third generation descendant of Rongleyuan, was interviewed.
At 14: 00 on December 25, the "Song Yun Banquet" has been going on for more than two hours, and the banquet process of 8 links and 32 dishes has been completed — — The banquet system of Sichuan cuisine, which originated from Rongyuan a hundred years ago, received the joint tasting and comments of the "Chengdu Famous Banquet" Sichuan cuisine masters at Songyunze, a famous restaurant.
Rose beef
The masters of Sichuan cuisine are all famous, and Song Yunze’s reputation is growing day by day. What kind of comments will the masters leave after the "Song Yun Banquet" is over? Sorting out the viewpoints, we found that the discussion of the masters collided with important debates about Sichuan cuisine, such as old and new, integrity and innovation, persistence and integration. How to clarify the relationship and establish a binary balance? The opinions of the masters are all wonderful.
From left to right, the masters of Sichuan cuisine are Zhang Zhongyou, Lan Qijin, Wang Kaifa, Lu Chaohua and Xiao Jianming.
Comments: Who are the masters of Sichuan cuisine?
Mr. Zhang Zhongyou, a national first-class cook and a master of Sichuan cuisine, stepped forward from restaurants such as Chengdu Nuli Meal and entered the United Nations delegation in China.
Mr. Lu Chaohua, the executive chef of Jinjiang Hotel, a five-star hotel, and a national first-class cook, has led a team to international food competitions such as the United States, Brazil and France on behalf of the country and achieved good results;
There is a second generation descendant of the century-old Rongyuan, a veteran master of Sichuan cuisine in China, and Mr. Wang Development, who was sent by the state as a chef of Rongyuan American branch for 8 years in the early 1980s;
There is Mr. Lan Qijin, deputy general manager of Jinniu Hotel, the State Guesthouse, who participated in the production of state banquets for many times and visited with leaders. In the mid-1980s, he served as the head chef in the Chinese restaurant in Dü sseldorf, Germany.
Mr. Xiao Jianming, the second generation descendant of Yourong Paradise, the national first-class chef, the head chef and director of Chengdu Piaoxiang old Sichuan restaurant.
Experts in the audience, including Mai Jianling, President of Sichuan Cuisine Association, Zhao Yipin, Secretary-General, Lan Mei, Sun Peike and other media food experts, are all judges and appraisers of Chengdu famous banquet, and they are also witnesses of the first complete appearance of Songyun Banquet in the industry in the traditional way of Sichuan cuisine.
Fish mutton tripe
Tracing back to the source: Is Rongparadise new or old?
About Song Yunze, since its establishment three years ago, it has always been a maverick in the food industry.
Walk alone because you stick to — — Adhere to the pattern, techniques and taste essence of modern Sichuan cuisine pioneered by Rongyuan a hundred years ago; Walking alone is because of opinions — — The so-called innovation that people don’t understand and are not familiar with the origin of Sichuan cuisine is a disorderly innovation without "roots", and the task at the present stage is to "adhere to tradition and innovate cautiously".
What was the glory paradise like a hundred years ago? About this source, in the master’s summary and comment session, it is restored and revealed bit by bit.
Cold white meat
The banquet format of "Song Yun Banquet" has been recognized. From the ancient menu design to the complete display of the banquet process, to the matching of utensils and fine meal sharing; From the exquisite taste of 12 cold dishes to 9 hot dishes, it is very humanistic and friendly; From the skills of "cooking coarse dishes carefully" in home-cooked dishes such as Sichuan style pork and white meat with garlic paste, to the practical improvement of traditional dishes such as lion’s head and fish and mutton tripe; From the patient hanging and stewing of three fresh noodles, abalone with liver oil and other kung fu dishes, to the various methods of making soup and kimchi … … All the details and even the whole highlight the care and consideration of tasting experience, nutrition collocation and facial features enjoyment.
Chengdu snacks fangyougao
This kind of high-quality banquet, which is both from the Republic of China and engraved in the present, has been unanimously recognized by well-informed masters.
Comments by Lan Qijin, a master of Sichuan cuisine: meticulous, meticulous and classic. He said: "We can see that there are adjustments and optimizations in every dish, and there are innovations, but the overall techniques and tastes retain the essence of tradition."
Master Zhang Zhongyou said: "Sichuan cuisine has a history of thousands of years. Modern Sichuan cuisine has developed for a hundred years, and it has become one of the eight major cuisines in China. It must have its deep roots and connotations, and it is not shoddy. This banquet pays attention to the color, smell and flavor, and the size of the utensils is very suitable. It is really a beautiful enjoyment. "
Mai Jianling, president of the Provincial Food Association, returned to the story of Rongyuan to experience the "new and old" of the source. She said that when many people heard that Song Yunze cooked traditional Sichuan cuisine, they thought it was very outdated and rustic, but in fact, the dishes served at the Song Yunze Banquet were not old at all, but had a feeling that tradition was in line with fashion. Rong Paradise is like this.
"For example, today is Christmas. Rongyuan developed a dish at that time, wrapped it in net oil and cooked it with barbecued pork, and then divided it into small portions for everyone to eat. This is not an old dish, it is an innovative dish completely according to the season, and it is ‘ The typical practice of "eating in western food" shows that Rongleyuan’s food concept is very smart and keeps pace with the times. "Mai Jianling’s words triggered the recognition of the masters.
Master Wang Development is not only the judge of "Chengdu Famous Banquet", but also the founder of Song Yunze. He spoke about the new and old understanding that "Song Yunyan" wanted to convey — —
"Old, that is, tradition, is a foundation, a basic skill, and the root of where we come from. Only by understanding where we come from can we better know where we are going."
"Innovation means innovation. It is definitely impossible to hold the old things unchanged. It is necessary to keep up with the changes of the times and make reasonable and moderate optimization, instead of making it unrecognizable and new. It is necessary to know why and where it is new, so that the combination of the old and the new can be more stable and further."
Looking back: What is the main reason for the evolution of Sichuan cuisine?
According to Wang Development, after the founding of the People’s Republic of China, the development of Sichuan cuisine experienced ups and downs. After the reform and opening up, Sichuan cuisine experienced a period of low tide, especially in the 1990s, when it was completely attacked by Cantonese cuisine, and its position was completely lost. "It is only in these years that Sichuan cuisine has gradually adjusted back and developed, but it is very chaotic. As an old man in the catering industry, we feel sad and worried." Wang Kaifa took action with the masters of Sichuan cuisine who shared the same feelings. In 2015, 91 masters of Sichuan cuisine initiated the establishment of a seminar on the traditional skills of Sichuan cuisine masters, determined to stop Sichuan cuisine from slipping into a spicy trend.
Master Xiao Jianming caught the conversation and asked a question: "Why can the development of Sichuan cuisine stand out from the traditional Sichuan cuisine and change into various cuisines?"
He went on to say: "Behind this is the diversification of demand brought about by the changes of the times. Today’s Chengdu is a mega-city with a population of over 20 million. When it was just liberated, Chengdu had a population of only 5 million, and the overall social needs were very different. "
For example, he said, the salt-help dishes, which are famous for their spicy, oily and salty tastes, "will definitely not survive" in Chengdu, where there are only 5 million locals. However, when there are hundreds of thousands of people from southern Sichuan in Zigong and other places among the 20 million urban population, there will be a demand market. The catering industry is a field with a high degree of marketization. If there is demand, there will naturally be supply, just like Hunan cuisine and Cantonese cuisine, it is because of demand that they can survive and develop.
"Generally speaking, it is the expansion of the city that brings new market opportunities. This is a very natural economic phenomenon, which is understandable, but we should also strengthen the inheritance and promotion of traditional Sichuan cuisine." He said that the prosperity of fine dishes can not be separated from the support of economic development, so Chengdu-Chongqing Corridor has become the main market of Sichuan cuisine, and there will be different types in different places. For example, Chongqing cuisine is a "river and lake cuisine" with heavy taste, which is influenced by macro factors such as local geography, humanities, politics and economy, and can be understood by each other.
In the eyes of other masters, the rise and fall of traditional Sichuan cuisine is closely related to both urban changes and practitioners’ ideas and choices. Traditional Sichuan cuisine was once lost in the evolution of food because it was labor-consuming and time-consuming, which was due to the great times; Nowadays, under a solid model created by Wang Development and Zhang Yuanfu, traditional Sichuan cuisine is getting more and more recognition, which is a kind of feeling and a kind of dedication.
"Although I am 75 years old, I often feel that Sichuan cuisine is profound and profound, and I haven’t learned enough. Sometimes disciples, students and people in the society ask me some questions, and it is difficult to answer them accurately and comprehensively at the moment, so I think Sichuan cuisine should be developed and all of us need to work together." Wang Kaifa’s concluding remarks touched all the gentlemen present and applauded for a while.