标签： 西安高端海选

Sichuan Online Reporter Zhang Hongxia Photography Ji Yong

Zhang Yuanfu (first from right), the third generation descendant of Rongleyuan, was interviewed.

At 14: 00 on December 25, the "Song Yun Banquet" has been going on for more than two hours, and the banquet process of 8 links and 32 dishes has been completed — — The banquet system of Sichuan cuisine, which originated from Rongyuan a hundred years ago, received the joint tasting and comments of the "Chengdu Famous Banquet" Sichuan cuisine masters at Songyunze, a famous restaurant.

Rose beef

The masters of Sichuan cuisine are all famous, and Song Yunze’s reputation is growing day by day. What kind of comments will the masters leave after the "Song Yun Banquet" is over? Sorting out the viewpoints, we found that the discussion of the masters collided with important debates about Sichuan cuisine, such as old and new, integrity and innovation, persistence and integration. How to clarify the relationship and establish a binary balance? The opinions of the masters are all wonderful.

From left to right, the masters of Sichuan cuisine are Zhang Zhongyou, Lan Qijin, Wang Kaifa, Lu Chaohua and Xiao Jianming.

Comments: Who are the masters of Sichuan cuisine?

Mr. Zhang Zhongyou, a national first-class cook and a master of Sichuan cuisine, stepped forward from restaurants such as Chengdu Nuli Meal and entered the United Nations delegation in China.

Mr. Lu Chaohua, the executive chef of Jinjiang Hotel, a five-star hotel, and a national first-class cook, has led a team to international food competitions such as the United States, Brazil and France on behalf of the country and achieved good results;

There is a second generation descendant of the century-old Rongyuan, a veteran master of Sichuan cuisine in China, and Mr. Wang Development, who was sent by the state as a chef of Rongyuan American branch for 8 years in the early 1980s;

There is Mr. Lan Qijin, deputy general manager of Jinniu Hotel, the State Guesthouse, who participated in the production of state banquets for many times and visited with leaders. In the mid-1980s, he served as the head chef in the Chinese restaurant in Dü sseldorf, Germany.

Mr. Xiao Jianming, the second generation descendant of Yourong Paradise, the national first-class chef, the head chef and director of Chengdu Piaoxiang old Sichuan restaurant.

Experts in the audience, including Mai Jianling, President of Sichuan Cuisine Association, Zhao Yipin, Secretary-General, Lan Mei, Sun Peike and other media food experts, are all judges and appraisers of Chengdu famous banquet, and they are also witnesses of the first complete appearance of Songyun Banquet in the industry in the traditional way of Sichuan cuisine.

Fish mutton tripe

Tracing back to the source: Is Rongparadise new or old?

About Song Yunze, since its establishment three years ago, it has always been a maverick in the food industry.

Walk alone because you stick to — — Adhere to the pattern, techniques and taste essence of modern Sichuan cuisine pioneered by Rongyuan a hundred years ago; Walking alone is because of opinions — — The so-called innovation that people don’t understand and are not familiar with the origin of Sichuan cuisine is a disorderly innovation without "roots", and the task at the present stage is to "adhere to tradition and innovate cautiously".

What was the glory paradise like a hundred years ago? About this source, in the master’s summary and comment session, it is restored and revealed bit by bit.

Cold white meat

The banquet format of "Song Yun Banquet" has been recognized. From the ancient menu design to the complete display of the banquet process, to the matching of utensils and fine meal sharing; From the exquisite taste of 12 cold dishes to 9 hot dishes, it is very humanistic and friendly; From the skills of "cooking coarse dishes carefully" in home-cooked dishes such as Sichuan style pork and white meat with garlic paste, to the practical improvement of traditional dishes such as lion’s head and fish and mutton tripe; From the patient hanging and stewing of three fresh noodles, abalone with liver oil and other kung fu dishes, to the various methods of making soup and kimchi … … All the details and even the whole highlight the care and consideration of tasting experience, nutrition collocation and facial features enjoyment.

Chengdu snacks fangyougao

This kind of high-quality banquet, which is both from the Republic of China and engraved in the present, has been unanimously recognized by well-informed masters.

Comments by Lan Qijin, a master of Sichuan cuisine: meticulous, meticulous and classic. He said: "We can see that there are adjustments and optimizations in every dish, and there are innovations, but the overall techniques and tastes retain the essence of tradition."

Master Zhang Zhongyou said: "Sichuan cuisine has a history of thousands of years. Modern Sichuan cuisine has developed for a hundred years, and it has become one of the eight major cuisines in China. It must have its deep roots and connotations, and it is not shoddy. This banquet pays attention to the color, smell and flavor, and the size of the utensils is very suitable. It is really a beautiful enjoyment. "

Mai Jianling, president of the Provincial Food Association, returned to the story of Rongyuan to experience the "new and old" of the source. She said that when many people heard that Song Yunze cooked traditional Sichuan cuisine, they thought it was very outdated and rustic, but in fact, the dishes served at the Song Yunze Banquet were not old at all, but had a feeling that tradition was in line with fashion. Rong Paradise is like this.

"For example, today is Christmas. Rongyuan developed a dish at that time, wrapped it in net oil and cooked it with barbecued pork, and then divided it into small portions for everyone to eat. This is not an old dish, it is an innovative dish completely according to the season, and it is ‘ The typical practice of "eating in western food" shows that Rongleyuan’s food concept is very smart and keeps pace with the times. "Mai Jianling’s words triggered the recognition of the masters.

Master Wang Development is not only the judge of "Chengdu Famous Banquet", but also the founder of Song Yunze. He spoke about the new and old understanding that "Song Yunyan" wanted to convey — —

"Old, that is, tradition, is a foundation, a basic skill, and the root of where we come from. Only by understanding where we come from can we better know where we are going."

"Innovation means innovation. It is definitely impossible to hold the old things unchanged. It is necessary to keep up with the changes of the times and make reasonable and moderate optimization, instead of making it unrecognizable and new. It is necessary to know why and where it is new, so that the combination of the old and the new can be more stable and further."

Looking back: What is the main reason for the evolution of Sichuan cuisine?

According to Wang Development, after the founding of the People’s Republic of China, the development of Sichuan cuisine experienced ups and downs. After the reform and opening up, Sichuan cuisine experienced a period of low tide, especially in the 1990s, when it was completely attacked by Cantonese cuisine, and its position was completely lost. "It is only in these years that Sichuan cuisine has gradually adjusted back and developed, but it is very chaotic. As an old man in the catering industry, we feel sad and worried." Wang Kaifa took action with the masters of Sichuan cuisine who shared the same feelings. In 2015, 91 masters of Sichuan cuisine initiated the establishment of a seminar on the traditional skills of Sichuan cuisine masters, determined to stop Sichuan cuisine from slipping into a spicy trend.

Master Xiao Jianming caught the conversation and asked a question: "Why can the development of Sichuan cuisine stand out from the traditional Sichuan cuisine and change into various cuisines?"

He went on to say: "Behind this is the diversification of demand brought about by the changes of the times. Today’s Chengdu is a mega-city with a population of over 20 million. When it was just liberated, Chengdu had a population of only 5 million, and the overall social needs were very different. "

For example, he said, the salt-help dishes, which are famous for their spicy, oily and salty tastes, "will definitely not survive" in Chengdu, where there are only 5 million locals. However, when there are hundreds of thousands of people from southern Sichuan in Zigong and other places among the 20 million urban population, there will be a demand market. The catering industry is a field with a high degree of marketization. If there is demand, there will naturally be supply, just like Hunan cuisine and Cantonese cuisine, it is because of demand that they can survive and develop.

"Generally speaking, it is the expansion of the city that brings new market opportunities. This is a very natural economic phenomenon, which is understandable, but we should also strengthen the inheritance and promotion of traditional Sichuan cuisine." He said that the prosperity of fine dishes can not be separated from the support of economic development, so Chengdu-Chongqing Corridor has become the main market of Sichuan cuisine, and there will be different types in different places. For example, Chongqing cuisine is a "river and lake cuisine" with heavy taste, which is influenced by macro factors such as local geography, humanities, politics and economy, and can be understood by each other.

In the eyes of other masters, the rise and fall of traditional Sichuan cuisine is closely related to both urban changes and practitioners’ ideas and choices. Traditional Sichuan cuisine was once lost in the evolution of food because it was labor-consuming and time-consuming, which was due to the great times; Nowadays, under a solid model created by Wang Development and Zhang Yuanfu, traditional Sichuan cuisine is getting more and more recognition, which is a kind of feeling and a kind of dedication.

"Although I am 75 years old, I often feel that Sichuan cuisine is profound and profound, and I haven’t learned enough. Sometimes disciples, students and people in the society ask me some questions, and it is difficult to answer them accurately and comprehensively at the moment, so I think Sichuan cuisine should be developed and all of us need to work together." Wang Kaifa’s concluding remarks touched all the gentlemen present and applauded for a while.

　　□ Our reporter Han Dandong

　　□ Intern Guan Chuyu of this newspaper

　　"Just playing a game, why do you want me to open so many permissions? ！” Mr. Li from Quanzhou, Fujian recently played a small game called ×× Bottle, and found that this game actually requires the player to authorize the phone address book, location, access to photo albums, text messages and storage to play. "This is simply more detailed than checking the account."

　　Mr. Li is not the only one who over-requests permission for online games. A number of gamers recently said in an interview with the reporter of the Rule of Law Daily that many online games, especially small games, have the problem of asking for excessive permissions. For example, if you play a small game, you have to authorize your camera, microphone, positioning and address book. If you don’t agree, you can’t play the game.

　　"Playing a game, privacy is stripped away." A player said.

　　Why do players have to open so many permissions to play a game? What impact may excessive permission have on players? Why has this chaos been repeatedly banned? With these questions, the reporter launched an investigation.

　　Online games ask for permission excessively.

　　Illegal collection of personal information

　　"Some large online games don’t need to open so many permissions. Instead, some casual games require opening various permissions. Moreover, once the storage permission is obtained, various advertisements will pop up soon, and some will be automatically downloaded to ‘ My file management ’ . The game didn’t have fun, and the garbage had to be cleaned up. " Mr. Li complained rather helplessly.

　　The reporter’s investigation found that some games will clearly explain the role of opening various permissions when applying for access rights. For example, in the privacy permission setting of the next popular hero competitive mobile game, there are explanatory information on the right side of each permission: you can experience game functions such as voice, voice to text, etc. by opening the microphone permission; Open the location permission to experience the game functions such as glory war zone and nearby people.

　　However, some installation-free applet games have a large number of requests for content rights unrelated to the game, and there is no relevant explanation. In the "Play Small Games in XX seconds" App, there are many small games that can be played without installation and opening. The reporter tried to play more than a dozen of them. Almost all of these games require a number of permissions from the player’s mobile phone, and they cannot enter the game without consent.

　　The privacy policy of a small program game named "XX Model" reads: "When you use this software network service, this software automatically receives and records the information on your mobile phone, including but not limited to your health data, voice used, date and time of visit, software and hardware feature information and the webpage you need."

　　It is understood that this is a cosmetic game. The privacy policy of this game does not indicate what the purpose of obtaining these rights information is, and "health data" has nothing to do with the game experience itself. There are many similar Applet games in the above-mentioned app, and there is this one in the privacy policy.

　　The reporter noticed that there are some boutique games in the App that are free of installation, but if you want to play these games, you must allow the App to access the applications on the player’s device, including photos, audio and video, and files, otherwise you will not be able to enter the game.

　　In fact, it is very common for online games to ask for permission excessively. In the list of apps that infringe on users’ rights and interests notified by the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology in recent years, game software has been listed many times, and the problems involved in the software can hardly be avoided in two categories: "App is forced, frequent and excessively asks for permission" and "illegally collects personal information".

　　On March 21 this year, the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology reported the latest batch of 55 apps that infringe on users’ rights and interests, including 7 game products. The main problems are excessive permission and illegal information collection.

　　In January this year, the Hainan Provincial Network Information Office conducted technical tests on various applications with a large number of users and closely related to people’s lives, in view of the illegal acquisition, out-of-range collection and over-requesting permission of apps strongly reflected by the masses. The results showed that all 17 online game apps of stick figure with a Line Drawing had behaviors such as forcing users’ permission, not specifying the purpose of requesting permission and over-collecting personal privacy information to varying degrees.

　　On March 27th, Chongqing Communications Administration and Sichuan Communications Administration notified the list of Apps infringing on users’ rights and interests in Sichuan and Chongqing in the third phase of 2023. A game App "illegally collects personal information, illegally uses personal information, is forced by the App, frequently and excessively asks for permission, and the app frequently starts itself and is associated with it", which became one of the typical cases that were notified.

　　The principle of minimization should be followed.

　　Obtain the necessary permissions to run.

　　How to measure whether a game excessively asks for permission?

　　Xie Lianjie, a lawyer of Beijing Yingke (Shanghai) Law Firm, believes that it can be considered from four aspects: the type, scope, quantity and purpose of authority. For example, if the game software reads contacts and short messages in the address book, the permissions are beyond the scope of its functional requirements, or reads permissions unrelated to the game, or the number of requested permissions is too large, and the requested permissions are inconsistent with the purpose of using its functions, etc., which are all excessive requests for permissions.

　　"To measure whether the game software excessively requests permission, we need to comprehensively consider various factors, but there is a principle that must be followed, that is, the principle of minimizing permission. The game software should only request necessary permission and cannot abuse it." Xie Lianjie said.

　　Xie Lianjie said that excessive access may have a series of adverse effects on users. For example, game software requires users to authorize information such as address book and location. Once users are authorized, personal privacy may be leaked; Excessive request for permission may also lead to system security risks, and malicious software can use the obtained permission to attack and tamper, bringing security risks to users; There are also some applications that must be recharged to use certain functions, and careless authorization by users may lead to unnecessary expenses.

　　What legal provisions are suspected of violating the game’s excessive request for permission?

　　Yao Jinju, a professor at Beijing Foreign Studies University, said that over-requesting permission is not necessary for providing services or unreasonable application scenarios, especially when it is silent or running in the background, and it is suspected of violating the relevant provisions of the Personal Information Protection Law, the Network Security Law and the Data Security Law. At the same time, if this behavior causes the personal dignity of natural persons to be violated or the personal and property safety to be endangered, it will violate the provisions of the Civil Code on personal rights and property rights.

　　"By asking for permission, the game software may directly obtain the identified or identifiable personal information, and collect, store, use, process, transmit, disclose and delete it. The Personal Information Protection Law stipulates that the processing of personal information should have a clear and reasonable purpose, and should be directly related to the purpose of processing, and adopt a method that has the least impact on personal rights and interests. " Yao Jinju said that the collection of personal information should be limited to the minimum range of processing purposes and should not be over-collected. Therefore, game software should obtain the necessary permissions to maintain the normal operation of the game strictly and limited based on clear and reasonable purposes.

　　Establish and improve the supervision system

　　Special rectification and strengthening punishment

　　The regulatory authorities have repeatedly stressed that it is forbidden to ask for excessive rights and constantly expose illegal game software. Why is this problem still banned?

　　In the view of Zhu Jie, a lawyer of Taihetai (Chongqing) Law Firm, there are three main reasons for repeated violations:

　　Rich profits bring great temptation. The acquisition of user rights is essentially to obtain user’s personal information. These personal information, whether processed by game operators themselves or provided directly to others, can be transformed into huge benefits.

　　The punishment for violations is not strong and the deterrence is insufficient. For such violations, the punishment measures of the regulatory authorities mainly include rectification within a time limit, removal from the shelves, administrative punishment, etc. These measures are not enough to offset the profits brought by violations.

　　Regular rectification of regulatory measures, the coverage is not large enough and the duration is not long enough, which makes some illegal manufacturers feel lucky or take temporary rectification to cope with supervision.

　　"The reason why game operators ask for permission excessively is to collect a large amount of personal information and dig deep into users’ consumption habits in order to seek more benefits. For game software and its operators who repeatedly violate regulations or cause serious consequences and adverse effects due to excessive permission, they should be directly punished. " Zhu Jie said that only by bringing the long-term mechanism into the supervision system and strengthening the punishment measures can the illegal manufacturers be banned.

　　"The problem now is not that the punishment prescribed by law is not enough, but that the corresponding law enforcement punishment has not been fully kept up." Xie Lianjie suggested that the special rectification of personal information protection in the game industry should be launched.

　　Some players suggested that the punishment for game operators who ask for too much authority should be strengthened, not only the illegal game software should be rectified and removed from the shelves, but also the game operators should be punished accordingly, and those who refuse to change their education should be restricted from putting their products on the shelves in the future; To further compact the platform’s responsibility, the platform should focus on the supervision of illegal game software, and smooth the reporting channels to respond to the demands of the masses.

　　Si Binbin, a lawyer of Beijing Tao ‘an Law Firm, also proposed to further implement the responsibility of the platform or application store. Game software on the shelves of regular application stores generally needs to access its SDK (Software Development Toolkit), which can be set to a strict form by default by the platform, and it is not allowed to be modified at will. If it is really necessary to ask for more user rights for the game software to run, it needs to be verified and confirmed by the game developer and the platform. "If there is a problem, the regulatory authorities can consider double penalties for game operators and platforms to promote the dual implementation of responsibilities."

　　Many experts suggested that users should also enhance their awareness of security, protect their personal information, choose a regular platform to download game software, try not to download from browsers or game stores with unknown sources, read the Privacy Agreement and User Agreement in detail, and do not authorize it easily; Find the problem of asking for permission excessively, actively report it and jointly safeguard the online game environment.